Levelling the SIP 01552 – Part 1

I mentioned ages ago that the planer tables of my planer thicknesser are about 0.2 degrees out of alignment with one another.

Goniometer showing 0.2 degrees

In real world terms this is less than 1mm over the 200mm width of cut (at least according to my rather rusty trigonometry!)

I’ve been wondering whether this really matters and if so whether I can do anything about it, as there doesn’t seem to be much in the way of adjustment.

I’d welcome your opinions and there’s a poll at the end of the post.

Today I’ve had a bit of a poke around and it’s not looking promising, but I think there’s a way forwards if necessary.

SIP 01552 with cover removed

I figure the tables should both be aligned to the cutter block and it seems the outfeed table is pretty well aligned:

SIP 01552 outfeed table

The infeed table looks (by eye) to be a bit lower on the fence side than the other:

SIP 01552 infeed table

I had previously thought it was the outfeed table which was out of alignment, but a spirit level across the tables seems to back up my new theory.

More worrying is that feels like when the infeed table is fully up, the blades still kiss the spirit level on the fence side slightly.

There doesn’t seem to be much scope for adjusting the outfeed table:

Outfeed table bolts

It’s bolted in four places and there’s little if any play in them, but luckily since the cutter block and outfeed are aligned that’s academic.

Outfeed table bolts

The infeed table has also 4 bolts, but to allow for height adjustment, rather than bolting directly onto the frame of the machine the bolts hold little square washers which slide in sloped grooves in the chassis:

Infeed table bolts

I figure to raise the table on the fence side it will be necessary to somehow raise these bolts slightly:

Infeed table bolts

The square washers have a round sleeve and I was hoping that they may allow for adjustment by rotating them a quarter turn but it seems not.

Square washer

Update 15/01/2013: The square washer things have the following dimensions:

  • the Square section is 10mm x 10mm x 3mm
  • the Cylindrical section is8mm diameter x 4.5mm length with a 5mm bore (maybe 5.25mm but I don’t have a drill bit that size)

There’s no way I can see to shim the slots – it may be possible to file down the slots or the washers on the higher side, but this risks losing the some adjustment leeway and the ability to take fine shavings.

Unless the washers on the other side are somehow different and can be swapped, there seems little scope for adjustment without replacing them with new ones specially fabricated to take into account the particular bias of my machine …

On a more positive note, I’ve checked again and the thicknesser bed seems well aligned with the cutter block.

This means as long as I ensure the fence is at right angles to the outfeed (easier than trying to get a square on the cutter), I should be able to create square lengths of timber.

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4 Responses to Levelling the SIP 01552 – Part 1

  1. manniccollector says:

    Hi I had a same problem but found by loosening the 3 bolts screws that hold your blade in place you can then use the 2 adjusters which raise or lower the blade this takes time but in the long run you can get them pretty accurate with spirit level on top so that it doesnt catch make sure you dont put the blades out too far or they will catch on the internal drum rotate round just to make sure they are free, when your happy re-tighten 3 screws again but keep checking as I found 1st time when re-tightening the blades move slightly which might require slight adjustments but overhaul it did the job for me

  2. Pingback: Levelling the SIP 01552 – Part 2 | Aggravated Wood Butchery

  3. billlattpa says:

    I have a small jointer table from Delta that I almost never use. The good news is that I paid nearly nothing for it as I purchased it as a close-out sale because it was listed as an “open box” item. I found out that it meant that there were no instructions or push blocks in the box but otherwise the item was untouched. Anyway, I simply don’t like toying with them, they are so fussy that it’s not worth the effort to me. I joint edges using a jointer plane. Believe me I’m no “hand tool or die” wacko but I found that it’s the simplest way for me to do it and isn’t too difficult

  4. paul says:

    Have you noticed that there is any substantive loss of functionality? Do you get any loss of accuracy? In the first case, I would expect the possibility of the workpiece jamming, in the second, a non-true cut

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