Following on from Part 3
I noticed that although my modification to the blade guard has made it possible to adjust the blade guides so they sit much further forward, I’m unable to retract it fully for the full 9 inch depth of cut.
This is because the sliding “guillotine” section of the blade guard needs to be relieved in the same way I did for the fixed part in Part 2 to stop it sitting on top of the guide.
This part is steel, rather than aluminium, so filing it to shape in situ wouldn’t be easy.
Luckily with the blade guide removed and the blade guard retracted I was able to wiggle the part out of the guard and clamp it to my folding workbench for cutting:
I used a junior hacksaw to remove the bulk of the waste and then a selection of files to even it out and smooth the edges.
The guard can now be fully retracted into the upper wheel housing:
The cut out means the sliding part of the guard no longer sits on top of the blade guide:
I’d not noticed it before but there’s a small gap in the blade guide when it’s fully down, and my modification has made this slightly (although as I only took off about 2mm it’s not a huge difference)
While I was readjusting the blade guides I noticed how much fore and aft play there is in the guard.
I’ll have to keep an eye on that and make sure I am consistent in pushing the guard back so the thrust bearing actually has something to bear against rather than just taking up the slack in the sloppy blade guide mounting …